Thursday, October 16, 2014

Share Your Experience - Regarding Mealy Bugs

Saravanan B's profile photo  I also used *NeemRaz *using sprayer on my Hibiscus Plant which was severely affected with white powdery substance in the tips of the branches. The
leaves used to fall and some became yellowish, due to this condition..  I trimmed all the branches that were affected and sprayed the neemRaz liquid
after necessary dilution, for 3 days at a stretch. Can see visible improvements and new leaves started sprouting. Also mixed neem pellets as
manure for the soil.

Saravanan


Saravanan B's profile photo

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

A Visual Treat Part 1

pipegarden waste used tier in garden decoration 10 Best recycling ideas out of waste tyre










The Formation of the Garden Group Gathering And What Has Been Done Till Date

The Garden Group Gathering was formed in the month of March 2014.
It  was a humble attempt to gather and meet like minded people in RajaAnnamalaipuram in Chennai  who would be interested in discussing about urban gardening and various environment issues, to promote healthier sustainable lifestyles in our society.


 As everyone are now aware that the modern urban consumer is caught in a development paradigm that is proving to be increasingly unsustainable for future generations.
 

As a response to this continuing damage and pollution we see today ,Garden Group,  focused to carry out a mission to bring together a community of people who will engage in genuine exploration of issues, free exchange of knowledge and a questioning of present day value systems pertaining to sustainable  practices .


Urban kitchen Gardening and home composting were one of them.


Our first  session took place on March 30th 2014 .

We invited Mr Radhakrishnan , a kitchen Garden expert from Good Governance Guard , to share his knowledge about setting up  a kitchen garden and also about composting.
The response from the media and the public was rewarding!


We acknowledged each and every delegate with a free flower sapling.

 More than 75 people visited the first session. 
As such, we initially planned to hold the meetings every quarterly only. But it so happened, that the residents who joined the gathering wanted such meetings every month.
So following that we invited MR Ayappan,secretary of Bio Sustainable Agriculture Promotional Society to share his knowledge on urban farming, later  a honey bee farmer, from Amudha Bee Farm  to talk about apiary, a social activist – Mrs Manimegalai from Sashtri Bhavan to talk about feeding water and food for city birds,etc .


Throughout all the sessions ,there was an exclusive display and sale of garden supplies and guidance to set up their own kitchen garden for the visitors. 
The NOCHI plant was distributed across the neighborhood through the garden group gatherings for many people. Last August we completed our 5th session.


Today, more than 200 registered people are members with Garden Group.
Adding yet another feather to its cap,  on August 17th  Garden Group  started the creation of a community garden in a small piece of land inside the 7th main road park .I am glad to tell you, that the project will  ready for  inauguration within 45 days.


Using this chance, I request every one to actively participate in all the discussion meetings conducted in the park as well as online group and blogs that have been formed for Garden Group Gathering .
Do share photos of your Kitchen Garden, articles on Environment Education, etc.


With a continuous support and motivation from the public like this, I  am sure Garden Group would hold many sessions benefiting the society in the future and reach its mission very soon.


At this junction , I cease this opportunity ,to thank the West Raja Annamalaipuram Residence Association ,its members and its  founder  for assigning me and for having  given me, this  opportunity to carry out a noble cause like this  among st innumerable services they render to society every day. 





















Harvested Ladies Finger Today

I  harvested ladies finger in my house today. Added it to buttermilk gravy and the vegetable tasted good.The seed is of the same variety used for the community park.
sangeetha

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Growing Watermelons

leaves watermelon pumpkin
This is the after photo showing plants in front of and behind our book-loving angel statue, Fred.

What sort of care will my watermelon require?

To develop the sweetest, most succulent flesh, watermelons require eight to 10 hours of direct sunlight daily. They prefer a soil rich in organic matter, like compost or rotted manure.
Since watermelons are 95 percent water, they also require plentiful, even regular, watering for quick growing. The soil should be kept moist until the fruit reaches full size and then watering should end until the watermelon ripens. Mulch can be used to help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds, which can steal water and nutrients from the watermelon plant and are especially harmful when the plant is still in the sprout stage.

When will I be able to harvest my watermelon?

Watermelons are ready for harvest in 80 to 90 days for baby bush varieties, and 90 to 100 days or more for the larger varieties.
Plant the seeds in hills about four feet apart. Put two to three seeds in each hill, and then mound the dirt firmly.
When the seedlings have their first true leaves, thin to the strongest plant. To avoid stressing the root system of the chosen plant, cut the seedlings to be thinned, rather than yanking them out of the ground.
Give the watermelons the most care and attention in this early stage to help them get a good start. Then you can relax, feed, and water them until harvest time.Feed watermelon early and often. Buy 5-10-10 fertilizer (or N-P-K for the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium proportions) for optimum watermelon growth.
Watermelon is a heavy feeder and needs a consistent source of water. Water at the base of the plant for at least one-half hour daily while plants are maturing. Once they set fruit, water as needed.

As the vines begin to mature and wander, train them to run the length of the garden, horizontally, in opposite directions.

If space is tight, the vines can be trained to run up a garden trellis, but they will need to tied and the fruit well-supported.
Check the leaves daily for any signs of common watermelon growing problems such as fusarium wilt or striped cucumber beetles.

 

Bush variety watermelons mature quickly in about 80 to 90 days. A popular watermelon myth is that thumping the melon is a good way to gauge ripeness.

A better way of determining this is by the color of the underside of the melon. When it turns yellow, and the green surface dulls, the melon is ripe.
Test the rind with the tip of a thumbnail; if it resists the pressure, pick it and eat.
Getting bigger and we can't wait to taste them!

Mealy Bugs

Mealybugs are important pests. They excrete honeydew which attracts ants and serves as a medium for the development of sooty mould. Mealybugs are soft bodied and scale like insects usually covered with powdery or cottony, wax like material. They are around 6 mm ( %4 in) long when mature and make cottony nests at twig joinings and under leaves.
  
Mealybug infestations appear on plants as tiny, soft-bodied insects surrounded by a fuzzy, white mess around the stems and leaf nodes. 

How to Get Rid of Mealybugs

Like most pests, the best control for mealy bugs is defensive. Healthy, vigorous plants are less susceptible to infestation than weak, underpotted, and stressed plants. As a general rule, make sure your plants are healthy, and you're less likely to attract these annoying critters in the first place.


If you see mealy bugs on your plants, there are several control options:
  • Wash them away. Mealy bugs can be dislodged with a steady stream of water. Repeat the treatment as necessary. This is best for light infestations.
  • Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps are available on the market .Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants.
  • Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is also a fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use on vegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals.
  • Kitchen insect spray. 
  • To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

A Reader's Remark

Dear Madam 

I have just gone through your blog , it is quite informative and interesting - You are taking lot of intiative in gardening and trying  to make the place more green through your  garden group ,  a yeoman service to the society - Thank you madam once again  for all your efforts , and you can  post more number of blogs to my e.mail.ID - jaya.krs@gmail.com   - 

Regards - K.R.Subramanian 

Sir,
The blog and the google group which we have formed ,  gains momentum when readers like you post comments, emails  and when there is a two way communication.

Thank you for the support sir.

I request you to post pictures of your plants , post queries and share your knowledge regarding any specific skill you know in regard to gardening and environment issues.

The service which you say , can be a meager one , if the efforts do not bear fruits.
That is ,everyone to get inspired and start greening our planet ! 

For my part , just by being a homemaker , if I am  able to reach so many of you, imagine influential people and celebrities , who can do wonders!

Greening our Chennai , making it a model city for pollution free environment and the society harvesting its benefits is my mission ! 

 I think its possible! you inspired me today , by your feedback and accelerated the pace.

Thank you so much.
Sangeetha.
Each One ..Inspire One! 

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Sangeetha 's Tulasi Plant


This is one of the Tulasi Plants in my garden. It has grown along with a Tomato plant. Actually there were two tomato plants. I pulled one tomato and planted in my neighbour's house. I have many another tulasi plants too. I have placed this one in the south direction.  
At best the pot can be made out of thin unglazed potter’s clay. Tulasi doesn´t like slack water or "wet feet" at all. I recommend using rose pots. They are higher than wider and offer enough space for a good drainage and fresh potting soil. Mostly you can find a drainage hole in the middle of the pot. Generally, the size of the pot should be adjusted to the size of the plant. This means, that for a relatively small plant it’s not useful to use a huge pot and vice versa.
Replanting should be done when the plant is growing strongly and its roots need more space. This should be the case when you find the plant having grown higher and wider than its pot is. The new pot could be about two or three sizes bigger as the old one. The best time for repotting is late afternoon since sun light will be less intense at this time. Be careful and cautious when replanting, remembering you are dealing with a very delicate plant.
The inside of the pot should be created as follows:
1. Cover the drainage hole with a coarse meshed plastic grid
2. A good layer of round potter´s clay granules
3. Fresh potting soil
4. Tulasi plant
5. Fill up with fresh potting soil

1) Basics: Sensitivity and Tenderness
Treat TULASI DEVI with lots of sensitivity, tenderness and love 
because SHE is a very tender, sensitive and pure being: 
SHE is a Goddess! She doesn’t like smoke (cigarettes, fire smoke)
 and doesn’t like too much incense smoke either.
 SHE feels comfortable in a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere.
2) Prerequisites

a) Potting Soil
Use a high quality dark and loose potting soil mixed with some silica sand.  
You can also make your own potting soil out of one third of soil, silica 
sand and vegetarian compost each. 
b.) Water
The most important and difficult fact of good care is to give her enough and good water.
The best thing to do is to check the ground humidity with your fingers 
because this will also deepen your connection to the plant and strengthen
 your intuition about its needs. If the soil is dry then you can water her again.
 In winter Tulasi needs less water than in summer. Don´t water her so much in winter,
 so that the soil can stay dry for several days.
Of course you’ll need to only water every six or seven or more days
 if the soil contains more clay which will make it less permeable. 
In this case it is specially important to check the ground with your hands 
to avoid overwatering. Best is to repot the plant in good soil.
The quality of the water is very important to keep Tulasi healthy. 
You fill a watering can with water and leave it at least for one day. 
After that you throw the water into a bucket with a huge distance, 
so oxygen can enrich the water. You can do that several times. 
The best thing is to span a metal grid above the bucket, 
so more oxygen can enrich the water.You give so much water to the pot 
until the soil is fully soaked with water and it begins to run out of the drainage hole.
Specially in the summer it is nice to spray Tulasi with water 
using a spray bottle to provide optimum humidity to its leaves.
c.) Heat
Tulasi is very heat and cold sensitive. A room that has a constant warm temperature, a greenhouse or indoor greenhouse is best for HER. 
You can place HER on a window sill with a heater right under it, 
provided the heater is on at night too. If not you can set Tulasi on a heating mat,
 which, at best, is connected to a thermostat to keep temperature 
at a constant level  Especially in the winter it is very important to ensure 
SHE is kept in a constantly warm place.
 Optimum ground temperature is around 26° Celsius (78,8° Fahrenheit). 
Please pay attention to the cold through the window. 
So create a little space between the window and Tulasi Devi.
In the summer SHE likes being outside in the sunlight for a few hours. 
Put HER directly in the sunlight and take HER back inside as soon as the
 sun starts setting, temperature drops or it gets too windy.
d.) Lighting
Natural lighting:
The brightest place in your home is the best place to grow your Tulasi. To help finding out:
“The sun rises in the East, it’s in the South at midday, it sets in the West, 
and it is never found in the North.’’
The best direction is South. East and West would be acceptable. 
At a time of intense sun light, it may be needed to move Tulasi slightly off the
 window or shield it in some other way, since glass can act as a burning glass.
Artificial lighting:
At times of the year with little sunlight such as winter or in regions 
with less daylight it is necessary to set up a plant light for Tulasi. 
There are plant lamps for growing (white/blue light) and for the flowers (yellow/red light). 
It is advisable to have both to give her the hole visible spectrum. 
One can get them in nurseries or order it from the internet for relatively little money .

4) Additional Care:
a.) Plucking
Especially with a young plant it is good to pluck each little stem after the
 growth of about three to four pairs of leaves counted from the origin of the stem.


Always pluck with your finger nails, don’t use scissors or other tools. 
Only if a stem has gotten very strong it is ok to use a tool to cut it.
After just a few days two new sprouts will have developed. 
The plucking procedure helps the plant to branch out, to get stronger and fuller.


When flowers start to build it is good to pluck those just where they start growing.
 This way the growth of the plant is encouraged and its energy used for the plant itself.
Of course you can leave a few flowers to blossom and build seeds. 
Just don’t leave all flowers to blossom
Once the plant is two or three years old, plucking can be reduced.

b.) Fertilization
Applying fertilizer is like feeding the plant. Even the best soil will get depleted of nutrients in time. During the strongest period of growth, which will be spring and summer, 
these fertilizers can be given:
- mineral herb fertilizer
...is a liquid fertilizer with all necessary nutrients. It will be served with the normal water.
- Vibhuti
 ...is sacred ash, which can be given once a month directly on the ground or

mixed into the water.
- dried cow dung
...is specially good to use when replanting. 

Cow dung contains important nutrients and in addition to that it supplies the plant 
with warmth which is created through the natural process of fermentation and 
decomposition. In the countryside you can find it on cow paddocks.
 Make sure to only use cow dung from organic farmers, 
since organic cow dung will be of much higher quality and not contaminated with pesticides. 
Mix the cow dung into the new potting soil and let it sit for more than 
14 days before you actually use it.
Tulasi will appreciate this extra nutrition with more vitality, stronger growth
 and shining leaves.
 c. Cleansing
Tulasi likes it when everything above grounded will be cleaned up at odd times.
 Particularly it is very advisable to prevent diseases. 
Take a natural soap without any artificial additives (for example Chandrika soap), 
create a relatively thin lukewarm soapy water mixture and fill it into a spray bottle. 
Sitting on a chair, one discovers his lap with a plastic tarp or a plastic bag and 
puts the pot on the side. Holding in one hand the entire above grounded plant
 so that She does snap in case of following water stress. Now sprinkle the trunk, 
branches and leaves some time with the water-soap mixture. 
Then you take a second spray bottle with pure water and spray HER once again. 
Wait a bit with putting HER up until most of the water has drained.
 

Tips to Keep Tulsi Healthy While Growing Indoors
The most common problems to look for regularly are:
  • Over watering
  • Spider Mites
  • Fungus or Powdery Mildew
  • Not enough light from the sun or grow lights (she requires 12-14 hours daily)
  • Soil and pot that does not have good drainage
  • Make sure the room she in is warm and has good ventilation or a fan to circulate the air. 
  • Fungus can set in if the room is cool and stagnant air, Her leaves will curl or drop if the
  • room is too cool or cold.
  • Not giving her enough fertilizer
  • If you do not cut Tulsi�s manjaris (flowers), She will grow too tall and will not become bushy
Symptoms of over watering:
*Tips or the center of her leaves turn brown or black
*In an advanced case of “root-rot” , whole branches or whole plant
will be look wilted (this can be misunderstood as needing more water)
*make sure she is in a pot that has good draining� indoor� potting soil
with a slightly larger draining tray under her.
*When watering, water thoroughly until water comes out the bottom of the pot.
Do not water her again until her pot becomes very light weight.
This gives her roots some time to get some oxygen in the soil
while she is almost dry. When her pot becomes very light to lift and
 she may even slightly wilt, water her thoroughly again until water
drains from the bottom into the drain tray underneath her. Note:
Do not let extra water sit in her tray, once she has drained the
excess water, empty the tray so she can begin to dry properly
and not create �root-rot� or mold developing in tray or surface of her soil.
Symptoms of Spider Mites:
She becomes very pale and when you look on the underside of her leaves,
you will see a white matter coating along the main viens of the leaf.
 (these are the small spider eggs) Also, if you look carefully with a
glass, you may see microscopic spiders crawling on the back of these leaves.
If you hold the leaf up to the light, it will appear to have light speckles.
If left untreated, it will spread and she will soon perish.
Note: So, remember to buy a magnifying glass if you don�t have.
Symptoms of Fungus or Powdery Mildew:
When daily checking Tulsi, if you notice any white powdery or
 fuzzy patches on the upper side of her leaves,
this means she has been attacked by mildew.
If left untreated, it will quickly spread to the whole plant and she will not survive. .
Also make sure the room where she is not cool or damp but
warm 70-80 degrees, with good circulation. Also: DO NOT wet or spray
her leaves with plain water except on the hottest days of summer. Any other time of year, it will cause fungus to grow.
Symptoms of Not Enough Sunlight or Grow-lights:
Tulsi plants thrive in the sunlight.She needs 12-14 hours a day of good
 sunlight or grow-lights. Some people say that they keep her next to a
 window, still she is so week. To them I again say that unless it�s a
South -facing window without trees around to cause shade, simply daylight from
any other facing window is not enough�not enough in the summer and definitely
 not enough in the fall, winter and early spring. In fact, in winter, you cannot
put her too close to a window as it is too cold and she will suffer and exhibit
 those frost bitten symptoms. We strongly advise that you do not take a 
Tulsi plant home to worship without investing in a proper grow light.
Reminder: Whether she is near a window in summer or under lights,
remember to turn her pot every few days so that she will grow
symmetrically on all sides. Otherwise she will grow only on the side facing the light.
Note: Buy a thermometer and keep it close to where Tulsi is situated.
Try to keep the temperature in the room always between 70-80 degrees
F or 23-25 degrees C.. (day and night)
Remember, she is sacred and very dear to Lord Krishna.
It would be an offence (Aparadha) not to give her the proper respect.
So, pick out a suitable place in your home before you decide to bring a Tulsi plant home.
Transplanting or Re-potting Tulsi:
Once Tulsi has outgrown her pot and becomes �root-bound�,
her growth will slow down or stop, it is time to put her in a larger pot.
Making sure there are good drainage holes at the bottom of the new pot.
Cover those holes with a curved or dome shape piece of broken clay pot.
Then fill the pot with about 2 inches of gravel or rocks (about the
size of a dime or a nickel in diameter) for good drainage . Press the sides of the
pot Tulsi is presently in, Turn her on the side, and slowly slide her out being careful not to
 disturb her roots. Remove carefully any rocks at the bottom of her “root ball”
and any extra soil that comes off easily with disturbing her roots. Place her
on the soil in the new pot and fill in all around her with new soil. Be sure not
to place her lower in the pot than she was previously and cover her at the
same level as before. Water her thoroughly. Make sure to have a drain tray
under her that it a little bigger than the pot. Empty any excess water from the tray.
Keep her away from bright light for a few days to give her roots a chance to adjust
and then you can put her back to her light source and she will flourish.
Fertilizing: As Tulsi grows, she uses up all the nutrition (nitrogen etc.) in her soil.
Thus, you have to replace those nutrients in order for her to be green and healthy.
A sign that she is getting low on nutrients is you will notice her leaves are all
 becoming a pale yellow instead of green. So, to prevent this,
it is recommended you fertilize her every two weeks during the
spring and summer (as she grows faster at those times) and
maybe once a month during fall and winter when her growth is less.)
You can use aged cow dung (never used fresh cow dung as it will burn her roots)
Mix 3 parts water with one part cow dung soaked overnight, or
The best way is to water her thoroughly the day before and then
mix the fertilizer as recommended and water her with that the next day.
 Giving her Fertilizer when she is too dry can affect or burn her roots as
she is very sensitive.
REMINDER: Diseased leaves cannot be offered, but should be buried in the ground
outside in a special place you choose.
REMEMBER: do the following once or twice daily:
    1. To lift her pot and see if she is getting lightweight and needs water
    2. Pick all yellow leaves and cut any flowers (manjaris) or new buds.
    3. Check for any bugs or mold on both sides of her leaves.
    4. Clean any fallen or dried leaves from her soil and loosen the top soil with your hand.
    5. Remember to turn her pot every few days so she grows evenly.
    6. Check the temperature in her room and that she�s getting enough light.
If any one likes to have  a sapling , you can collect it from house now.Call 7358552372
I stay in trichy.
sangeetha

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Mid Summer Thai Basil Growing Tips

Timing

Basil grows well in containers indoors at any time of year provided you can supply enough light. For outdoor growing, sow basil seeds from mid-April to mid-May for transplanting to the garden in June, or direct sow in late-May or early June, once the soil has warmed up. Basil requires warm soil and full sun. Optimal temperature for germination: 21°C (70°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-10 days.

Starting

Sow seeds 1cm (½") deep in sterilized seed starting mix. Basil is prone to damping off, so one seeds sprout, make sure they are adequately ventilated, and kept under very bright light. Thin to 20-25cm (8-10") apart. Using bottom heat speeds germination.

Growing

Use any rich, loose, well drained soil. Once plants are 15cm (6") tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage really bushy growth prior to harvest. Watch for signs of flower buds forming in mid-summer, and pinch these off to promote more foliage.

Harvest

Frequent harvesting will prolong the life of the plant. Basil leaves have the best flavour just before the plant flowers, and if you plan to preserve some of your basil or make a big batch of pesto, this is the best time to harvest. Flowering can be delayed by pinching or clipping off new flower buds. 
 
Tear basil rather than chop with a knife because when you chop you will notice the basil going dark. The oil stays in the leaf and does not properly flavour your food. Try to add just before serving so as to get the full aroma and effect. Cooking for any length tends to make the minty side of basil come to the forefront. 
 
Basil is best fresh, but can be perserved by drying or by freezing. To do this, tear the leaves into small pieces and freeze small batches of them, with water, in ice cube trays. Once frozen, the cubes can be saved in zip-lock type bags and labeled for later use. This will preserve the fresh flavour of basil for up to four months. 
 
For a large harvest, you can cut off as much as a half the plant at once.

Seed Info

Usual seed life: 3 years.

Mid Summer Thai Basil Plant







Ladies Finger Blossomed Quickly




Desert Petunia or Ruellia Brittoniana Grows In My Garden In Chennai






    Scientific Nomenclature
    Kingdom   : Plantae
    Order        :  Lamiales 
    Family       :  Acanthaceae
    Genus        : Ruellia
    Species      : brittoniana  
    Common name:
    English : Desert Petunia, Florida Bluebells, Mexican Petunia, Mexican Blue Bells 
    Description: 
    Desert petunia is an extremely tough, drought-resistant plant with a long bloom period. is a tender evergreen perennial that forms colonies of stemmy stalks standing 3 ft in height and of indeterminate width. The strong semi-woody stalks are distinctly vertical in aspect and hold attractive dark green, leaves oppositely at the nodes. The lance-shaped leaves are to 6-12 in in length and 1.3-1.9 cm wide. When grown under hot sunny conditions the foliage assumes a metallic bluish cast. The blossoms are blue, trumpet shaped and about 1.5-2 in in diameter and are borne at the tips of the stems.
    Flower Colours:
    Blue
    Pink
    White

    Varieties with white, pink, and many shades of blue are available, as are dwarf versions that form clumps that are about 8-12 in in height.